‘Sparkling Wine, Anytime’ – and Bereche Champagne for Special Times

“Sparkling wine, anytime.” Dave McIntyre’s column in the Washington Post’s food section yesterday has us saying “absolutely!” And we certainly agree that the classy Bohigas Cava Brut Reserva is great “affordable pizzazz” from $14.98, perfect for the celebratory neighborhood get-together or to accompany you as you gather informally with family and friends.

Bereche et fils cote 3 bottlesStill, sparkling wine makes us think of Champagne, and the excellent values we’ve brought in for you from Bereche, cellar selections from two of the most talented, exciting and impressive talents working in Champagne today: Vincent and Raphael Bereche.

The brothers Bereche farm 9 hectares of vines in some of Champagne’s most fascinating terroirs, including around Ludes and Craon de Ludes, the gravelly terroir of Ormes in the Petite Montagne, and the area around Mareuil-le-Port, on the left bank of the Vallee de la Marne.

Raphael and Vincent Bereche

They farm organically, make wine meticulously, and create Champagnes of uncommon grace, verve, and deliciousness. As Antonio Galloni says in Vinous,

“These artisan, handcrafted Champagnes remain some of the most personal, unique wines being made in the region today. I rarely miss an opportunity to drink them, and, for what it’s worth, neither should you.”

The three wines featured here come from Bereche’s Crus Sélectionnés program. To increase the range of Champagne terroirs they represent – and deal with truly crushing global demand for their small production wines – Vincent and Raphael have begun visiting the best of the best tiny Champagne estates and sampling through their wines aging on the lees. When they find a winner, they buy it, bring it to their own cellar, and continue aging until it’s ready. Then they disgorge and finish the wine with an appropriate dosage.

Tasting through the Crus Sélectionnés from the Cotes de Blancs quickly proves that Bereche is as adept at picking great Champagne as they are at making it! All three of these wines were disgorged in January of 2016 and finished “Extra Brut” with only four grams per liter of sugar added to bring the wines into balance. The combination of 8-10 years on the lees and two years cellar time after disgorgement has brought all three bottlings into their perfect drinking windows (although, as you’ll see in the Wine Spectator reviews, all still have years to go).

Frankly, all three of this rich, layered 100% Chardonnay Champagnes are outstanding values at their $110 release prices. Just compare them to vintage 2005, 2006 and 2007 Champagnes earning higher scores in Wine Spectator – names like Cristal, Krug, Dom Perignon are what you’ll see.

At comfortably under $100 by the bottle and only $85/ea in the vertical three-packs, they are brilliant value whether buying for gifts, putting in the fridge for Christmas and New Year’s, or adding to the cellar to enjoy for years to come.

California’s Morlet Family Vineyard

morlet-family-vineyardsMorlet Family Vineyards recent releases have earned 96 and 97 points from Wine Advocate. The Advocate uses words like ‘electric’ and ‘triumphant’ to describe the two Chardonnays and Cabernet we are offering in our 2018 Small Business Saturday tasting, Nov. 24, 12-4 pm.

What makes these wines so special? On the surface, it’s that all are so very, very, very delicious. But it’s also pedigree. Luc Morlet learned wine growing up in Champagne and then honed his craft at Newton (he trained with John Kongsgaard before becoming winemaker) before becoming head winemaker at Peter Michael in 2001. There he followed in the footsteps of Helen Turley and Mark Aubert before leaving to start his own estate in 2006. Sir Peter Michael so valued Luc’s expertise and skill that he kept him on as his first and only consulting winemaker (helping his brother, Nick, who makes the wines today).

Luc morletLet’s just pause a moment and notice the names Luc is associated with:

Newton
Kongsgaard
Helen Turley (now at Marcassin)
Mark Aubert
Peter Michael

Can you find a more important list of California Chardonnay makers? Folks, this is one of California superstar winemakers. And his wines – as highly rated as they are – are actually even more impressive in your glass. These are not inexpensive wines by any definition, and our allocations are tiny, but this is a ‘do not miss’ chance to sample some of the most exciting New World wines we’ve tried in years.

 

Il Civettaio: More than Agriturismo

Gregorio Dell_Adami de Tarczal

Gregorio Dell’Adami de Tarczal kind of backed into the wine business. Italian born, but descended from generations of Hungarian Tokaji producers, Gregorio purchased the charming Il Civettaio property in 1988 to open an agriturismo vacation property and make a little wine on the side.

But, as you’d expect from someone who had a successful career as a business executive in multi-national marketing firms, Gregorio soon got carried away. He immediately converted all three of his small vineyards to organic farming, eliminating herbicides and other chemical sprays. He added solar panels to the property, taking both the winery and the farm house “off the grid.” He even searched for new well sites using a diving rod!
Today he makes five wines plus grappa and olive oil and sells most of his production at the property and to local restaurants and wine lovers.

A Lucky Allocation
Il Civettaio Poggio al Commissario Toscana IGT labelWe were lucky to get to know his work when another producer in Campania invited Gregorio to join us for dinner after tasting her wines. And luckier still to get a nice allocation of a delicious Super-Tuscan value – Il Civettaio Poggio al Commissario Toscana IGT 2014 – to share with you!

 

Can you drink Il Civettaio Poggio al Commissario Toscana IGT 2014 with Thanksgiving dinner? Sure, why not! The ripe fruit will handle all the big flavors of a traditional turkey day feast, the herbal accents will echo the flavors and aromas of stuffing, and and the squirt of finishing acidity will refresh your palate for yet another helping of seconds. You’ll also enjoy this with classic Italian dishes like pizza, pasta, and – of course – Bistecca alla Fiorentina. Or tonight with any light nibbles as you wait for the election returns to come in.

Meet Philippe … and his 2015 Cotes du Rhones

philippe plantevinPhilippe Plantevin isn’t the flashiest winemaker in the Rhone, and hunkered down against the force of the Mistrial down near the town of Cairanne Nnrth of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, his domaine is easily overlooked.  But, while Philippe is a pretty quiet, even modest, guy, there’s plenty of intensity and passion for making great wine here too.  Philippe’s family grew grapes and made a little wine in the vineyards around the Southern Rhone village of Cairanne but sold all their fruit and wine to the local coop.  In 1993, the young Philippe decided he could do better.

He and his wife bought an 18th century coach house (now lovingly restored) and built a very traditional Rhone winery there – a little stainless steel, but mainly concrete tanks for fermentation and aging.  Over time, he acquired vineyards in Cairanne itself, in the surrounding town of Visan, and also to the south in Vaucluse, just outside the Cotes du Rhone AOC.

Philippe is a practical grape farmer, making minimal use of chemical sprays, training his vines low to the ground, and accepting the low yields needed for fine wine making in his rocky vineyards.  Old-vine Grenache makes up the backbone for all of Philippe’s reds, with low-yielding, small-berried, Syrah adding color, meaty notes, and black fruits.  In the winery, things are very traditional – long fermentations (10-30 days) in steel and concrete with regular pump overs to extract color and structure.

The resulting wines are very fine from top to bottom, but Philippe is too picky to just bottle everything he makes.  Instead, every year, he chooses his favorite tanks of wine to bottle with his label and sells the rest to top Rhone negotiants like Guigal.  If it has his label on it, it’s because the wine is very, very, good.

An Extraordinary CdR Villages
Phillippe Plantevin CDR La DaurelleWhile we love all of Philippe’s wines, his special Cotes du Rhone Villages La Daurelle cuvee is our favorite.  It’s a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Carignan and 10% Mourvedre grown on 8 hectares of clay/limestone scrubland in and around the village of Cairanne.  Like all of Philippe’s reds, the grapes are harvested and co-fermented in tank (steel and concrete), and most of the blend ages in tank as well.

But, with encouragement and support from his US importer, Olivier Daubresse, Philippe also ages one-third of the blend in small French oak cask.  The barrels are 1-5 years old, so they don’t add any oaky flavor to the wine.  Instead, they allow a slow, steady, exposure to oxygen bleeding into the wine through the wood to soften a bit while gaining rich, meaty, complexity.

Recent vintages of La Daurelle have been deep, chocolaty and intensely earthy – so you’d expect the 2015 (from a warm, rich, year) to be like that, right?

Nope!  As many Rhone winemakers discovered too late, down beneath all of 2015’s super ripe fruit they lay a core of pretty intense and not always fun grippy tannins.  Philippe clearly spotted them early, so for this wine – so rich in structured Carignan and Mourvedre – he worked with a bit lighter hand than usual.

I’ll be honest – when this wine arrived a few months ago, I was worried that his hand had been too light!  But 2015 La Daurelle is taking on more and more richness as it rests in bottle and is now showing like a really good (if $40-$50 cost) Chateauneuf du Pape.  The tannins are silky, the fruit explosive, and the future bright for this – once again, the best value in Rhone red you’ll find in the store.

See Philippe’s 2015 Rhones Here.

Serious Chianti Players Have a Little Fun

Il Bastardo LabelWe’re enjoying the crazy label on our Carryout Case Special This Week, and chuckling at the fact that this great Sangiovese deal with the silly label comes in … a wood case! Here’s the story behind the wine …

At their Fattoria di Basciano estate in Chianti Rufina, the Masi family has made authentic, juicy, fresh Chianti just east of Florence for three generations. Practice clearly makes perfect, because Wine Advocate lavished praise over their new, estate-grown, Chiantis, calling them “one of the rising stars of Rufina.”

Renzo Masi FamilyAbout a decade ago, the family started a second winery called Renzo Masi to purchase fruit from friends, neighbors with, as Wine Advocate explains, put an “emphasis on value wines with vibrant territorial personality.” We think they do a great job and are proud to have Renzo Masi Chianti Reserva 2011 on our shelves right now – a very nice Chianti value for $15.

Now, enter Robert Shack, founder, president, and chief wine guru of HB Wine Merchants. Shack has been an important importer for years, representing the likes of Michel Chapoutier’s Bila Haut, Peter Zemmer in Alto Adige, St. Urbans-Hof in Germany, and Fattoria di Basciano from Chianti. Plus, Bob has never been afraid to go out and look for values on his own – we’ve loved several vintages of Clos Robert (as in Robert Shack) Cabernet Sauvignon over the years.

So, when Bob was looking for an even more aggressively priced Chianti-like red from Italy, it was only natural that he’d approach young Paolo Masi, winemaker at Renzo Masi for help. Renzo spread his grape-buying net beyond Chianti to little villages and obscure vineyards across Tuscany – all the places that have the right soils and climate to create delicious Sangiovese, but lacked the winemaking skill or Chianti name to make it happen.

Then, he made a cheerful, all tank Sangiovese for Bob to bring to the American market at a bargain basement price.

What’s With the Fat Guy? And the Wood Case? Now, there’s a lot of low-priced Sangiovese on the market (although not very much that’s anywhere near as good as this one). So Bob decided that a bold label and memorable name would be in order. Where the idea for the plump guy with a thin mustache and slicked hair sitting on a stool came from, we can’t say. And, the less thought given to the colorful name, the better.

But the wine is really good, a big mouthful of juicy Sangiovese fruit with more than enough bright cherry acidity to cut through the red sauce and cheese on your pizza or plate of lasagna, but ripe and supple enough to simply sip while the pasta is still in the water. Add in the very attractive $9.99 price, and you’ll see why this has quickly become the most popular Italian red in the store.

So, here we have a popular, great priced, great value, Italian red that’s easy to get people to try, pulls in lots of repeat customers, and makes money for everyone involved for $10 bucks. So a few years ago, someone – the folks at Renzo Masi? Robert Shack? A marketing consultant? – for some reason decided something needed to change. Perhaps a wood case would work?

We had fun sharing the 2013 Il Bastardo in wood case with you back in 2015, although the fun was short-lived (we sold out in about 2 days).

When we found out they were offering it in wood again, we doubled our last order and piled it up high. It makes for a fine chance to lay in some sip- and gift-worthy Sangiovese at a screaming value $6.98/ea case price. Come by, give it a try, and we’ll roll the wood case out the door for you!

Focus on Farming: Domaine Girardin

Marco Caschera Dom Girardin

Dom Girardin’s Marco Caschera and Eric Germain have pushed this estate toward greatness.

While it still carries the founder’s name, by the mid-2000s, Vincent Girardin had largely turned over responsibility the Domaine to GM Marco Caschera and winemaker Eric Germain. Since Girardin retired in 2012, Caschera and Germain continue to push this once very good estate forward towards greatness.

Under Germain’s leadership, the Domaine has moved away from the fleshy, super-ripe, and heavily-oaked style of whites that first brought it fame in the 1990s. The focus now is first and foremost on farming. The Domaine itself owns and tends about 50 acres of vines across Burgundy and has access to additional vineyards owned by trusted growers. Vineyard work is as natural as possible, following organic and biodynamic principles as much as Burgundy’s fickle climate and weather allows.

Yields are now modest due to careful pruning and thinning of the crop during the growing season. Grapes are harvested by hand and sorted twice – once in the vineyard by the pickers and then again in the winery by hand and – since 2016 – a modern optical sorting machine.

Vincent Giradin signGetting the Fruit to Bottle. In contrast to the winery’s original style, Germain’s focus now is on getting his fruit to bottle with as little manipulation and handling as possible. For Chardonnay, that means no destemming before pressing – because knocking the berries off the stems opens the grape to the risk of oxidization before fermentation. Instead, whole clusters go directly to the press were the juice can be gently extracted and flow by gravity directly into tank for settling.

From tank, the thick, fresh, juice flows by gravity into French oak barrels for both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. Oak is important to developing richness and depth to Chardonnay, but Germain does not like the flavor of wood, so most wines see 10-15% new oak (enough to replace aging barrels) and only the very top, most concentrated, wines get as much as 30%.

Once the wine is in barrel, Germain….waits. Other than keeping each barrel topped up to make up for evaporation, the wine simply sits on the fine lees of fermentation for 14-18 months of resting and maturation. When the wine is ready, the cellar team simply knocks the bottom bung out of the barrel and allows the clear wine to flow out, leaving the milky sediment behind. Bourgogne Blanc – because of the amount made – requires a little pumping, so it sees a light filtration before bottling. Everything else goes naturally from barrel to blending tank to bottle.

All that’s nice, of course, but what really matters is what you’ll find in the bottle when you get it home. And that’s DELICIOUSNESS! Sure, these are super-sophisticated wines of terrior, complexity and minerality. But they are also flat out fun to drink right now and built to keep on improving more. Come, taste, and stock up while you can!

“Terroirist” Ken Wright and the 2016 Vintage

ken-wright

Ken pioneered single-vineyard Pinot Noir in the Willamette Valley

Ken Wright is one of the most impressive – even formidable – winemakers I’ve ever met, and every time I talk with him, I come away astonished at how much he knows about Oregon vineyards and Pinot Noir. There’s a reason Wine Spectator put him the cover and called him “A Master of Pinot Noir in Oregon” last year.

Ken is one of the “old hands” of Oregon Pinot Noir. He founded Panther Creek winery in 1986 and made the wines there until selling the estate. He opened Ken Wright Cellars in 1993 in a converted glove factory in Carlton, Oregon, making the first two vintages of Domaine Serene’s wines in 1993 and 1994 while starting his own production. Within just a few years, Ken’s wines were the most sought-after in Oregon.

The Distinctive Characteristics of Site
Ken is quick to explain that, in his view, the whole purpose of Pinot Noir is to express the distinctive characteristics of each site it occupies. He was the first to start the push for creating distinct Willamette Valley AVAs and today makes a dozen different vineyard-designate Pinot Noirs. As Ken says, “Ken Wright Cellars is devoted to showcasing the inherent quality of selected vineyard sites. With a clarity and breadth that is unequaled by other varieties, we believe Pinot noir best expresses the character of these sites. Rather than stamping wine with a varietal trademark, we see Pinot noir as a vehicle for conveying the aroma, flavor and texture of the location in which it is grown.”

While showcasing “terroir” is important, the wines have to taste good, too. Again and again, Ken has demonstrated his ability to make highly rated Willamette Valley Pinot Noir even in the most difficult conditions. Writing about Ken’s work in the hot 2006 vintage, Wine Spectator said,

“In any Oregon vintage, you can count on Ken Wright making some of the most elegant and refined Pinot Noirs. His wines, all single-vineyard bottlings, always have finesse and tremendous polish, even in an extraripe vintage like 2006. Where others made big, heady wines, Wright managed to keep most of his cuvées bright and juicy.”

Talking about Ken’s wines from the challenging 2004 vintage, Robert Parker said,

“There are not many Pinot Noir winemakers who can make six separate cuvees, and have five of them nearly outstanding. In fact, this exceptional success rate puts Ken Wright in the company of such Burgundy luminaries as Laurent Ponsot, Lalou Bize-Leroy, Hubert Lignier, J. J. Confuron, and Claude Dugat.”
 
So, when Ken gets his hands on material like he had in 2016, watch out!

Vintage 2016: Abnormally Almost Normal
ken-wright-winesIn the past decade, Oregon’s Willamette Valley has seen only two “normal” vintages – which opens the question of what “normal” is for a region with this much season-to-season variability! The “normal” years were 2008 and 2012, generally regarded as the best Pinot Noir vintages in the Valley ever. I think 2016 will join those ranks.

With two exceptions, 2016 was a normal year. First, the growing season started unusually early, creating a significant risk of damage from late spring frost that, thankfully, never materialized. Second, temperatures spiked a bit while the vines were flowering. No damage done to quality, but it did lead to the smallest fruit set since 2013 and much smaller berries than were seen in 2014 or 2015.

After that the growing season was pure silk. None of the cold weather than challenged 2010 and 2011 or any of the severe heat and drought that made 2009, 2014 and 2015 such unusual adventures. And with late August and early September dry, sunny, and clement, growers had no reason to rush harvest ahead of big storms (2013) or worry about dehydration, excessive sugars or deficient acids (2014 and 2015). Everyone got to pick when they were ready, with all the grapes getting the 100 days of hang time so important to Pinot flavor development and some coming in healthy and fresh after up to 110 days.

What is Ken’s evaluation of vintage 2016? From his harvest letter:

“Small berries give us greater intensity of color, aroma and texture. It is a magnificent vintage that combines density with balance and immediate appeal. We are in love.”

If you think Pinot Noir “that combines density with balance and immediate appeal” and that clearly speaks to each individual Willamette Valley vineyard sounds appealing, then Ken’s 2016s are for you.

Our pre-arrival offer is good until October 10, 2017.