“Sparkling wine, anytime.” Dave McIntyre’s column in the Washington Post’s food section yesterday has us saying “absolutely!” And we certainly agree that the classy Bohigas Cava Brut Reserva is great “affordable pizzazz” from $14.98, perfect for the celebratory neighborhood get-together or to accompany you as you gather informally with family and friends.
Still, sparkling wine makes us think of Champagne, and the excellent values we’ve brought in for you from Bereche, cellar selections from two of the most talented, exciting and impressive talents working in Champagne today: Vincent and Raphael Bereche.
The brothers Bereche farm 9 hectares of vines in some of Champagne’s most fascinating terroirs, including around Ludes and Craon de Ludes, the gravelly terroir of Ormes in the Petite Montagne, and the area around Mareuil-le-Port, on the left bank of the Vallee de la Marne.
They farm organically, make wine meticulously, and create Champagnes of uncommon grace, verve, and deliciousness. As Antonio Galloni says in Vinous,
“These artisan, handcrafted Champagnes remain some of the most personal, unique wines being made in the region today. I rarely miss an opportunity to drink them, and, for what it’s worth, neither should you.”
The three wines featured here come from Bereche’s Crus Sélectionnés program. To increase the range of Champagne terroirs they represent – and deal with truly crushing global demand for their small production wines – Vincent and Raphael have begun visiting the best of the best tiny Champagne estates and sampling through their wines aging on the lees. When they find a winner, they buy it, bring it to their own cellar, and continue aging until it’s ready. Then they disgorge and finish the wine with an appropriate dosage.
Tasting through the Crus Sélectionnés from the Cotes de Blancs quickly proves that Bereche is as adept at picking great Champagne as they are at making it! All three of these wines were disgorged in January of 2016 and finished “Extra Brut” with only four grams per liter of sugar added to bring the wines into balance. The combination of 8-10 years on the lees and two years cellar time after disgorgement has brought all three bottlings into their perfect drinking windows (although, as you’ll see in the Wine Spectator reviews, all still have years to go).
Frankly, all three of this rich, layered 100% Chardonnay Champagnes are outstanding values at their $110 release prices. Just compare them to vintage 2005, 2006 and 2007 Champagnes earning higher scores in Wine Spectator – names like Cristal, Krug, Dom Perignon are what you’ll see.
At comfortably under $100 by the bottle and only $85/ea in the vertical three-packs, they are brilliant value whether buying for gifts, putting in the fridge for Christmas and New Year’s, or adding to the cellar to enjoy for years to come.