Dave McIntyre described a wine in one of his reviews once as one that would “fuel conversation, not dominate it,” and if we had to sum up the delicious, joyful wines of Kellerei Kaltern in one phrase, that would be it. Though they are made with great care, the grapes handpicked by a collection of hundreds of small growers all dedicated to quality, they do not knock you over the head with their importance.
Instead, they are the kinds of wines that insinuate themselves into your daily life, or, in our case, into your wine shop. No other single winery dominates as many spots as Kellerei Kaltern does, and they deserve every bit of shelf space. This is why we were so excited to have Tobias Zingerle join us this past Thursday for a relaxed evening of delicious, food-friendly wines.
In the foothills of the Alps, Alto Adige is a unique, high-quality wine region that combines the kind of racy, cool-climate varieties you find in Germany and Austria with a food-friendly Italian sensibility. In Bolzano, the main city in the region, the signs are in German first, and then Italian – the region really is at the intersection of two cultures, and the wines reflect this as well.
We tasted nine wines in all, each one more delicious than the last. Standouts included the refreshing, crisp Pinot Bianco, perfect for crab or any kind of shellfish, and the quintessential aperitif wine. The light-bodied red Schiava was a revelation for many as well, although it’s been the ‘house red’ for many of us on staff for months now. A red this light can at first seem too thin and light if you’re used to drinking full-bodied, New World reds. It’s the kind of wine that grows on you over time rather than bowling you over at first sip, so it’s easy to overlook. But put a few bottles in your wine rack, and you’ll be surprised at how often you reach for it.
The Moscato Rosa was another surprise. Made from a rare pink mutation of the Muscat grape, it’s an off-dry rose with a little bit of tannin, and a whole lot of flavor and fun. It’s the perfect wine for brunch or a lazy Sunday afternoon spent with the paper or a great book, and maybe a little cheese. The thought of sweet rose is shudder-inducing for many, calling to mind those not-so-great ‘blush’ wines that come in a box or jug, but this is real wine, and very well made – it just happens to be loads of fun, too!
Many thanks so Sandy Dickerson of Siema Imports and Tobias Zingerle of Kellerei Kaltern for a fun and educational evening. Now, if you’ll excuse us, we have a date with a bottle of Schiava and some pizza…
Be sure to peruse the links below for more information on these delicious wines!