Introducing California’s Union Sacré … and an under $30 Cabernet!

Union Sacre Philip Muzzy and Xavier ArnaudinUnion Sacré is a fairly new venture of Michigan-born Philip Muzzy and France’s Xavier Arnaudin. They met and became friends a few years ago while working in Santa Barbara. Philip designed labels and did marketing for Herman Story, Sans Liege, and Desparada while Xavier made wine at culty wineries like Barrel 27, Herman Story, Arcadian and (today) Sans Liege. Together they are making some of the most exciting California wines we’ve tasted in years, including a snappy fresh Riesling, an exotic (and dry) Gewürztraminer, a lush, plush, Syrah blend, … and a fantastic Cabernet Sauvignon from Happy Canyon.

And I’ve liked – loved, actually – every wine I’ve tasted so far from this still young venture of an American wine marketer and supremely talented French winemaker. All have been ridiculously good and silly bargains for hand crafted, artisanal, and compellingly delicious California wines.

Union sacre cab and glassBut the 2016 Le Confident Cabernet Sauvignon is by far the best of this very compelling bunch. Muzzy and Arnaudin sourced the 100% Cabernet Sauvignon fruit for this wine from Santa Barbara’s Happy Canyon Vineyard. This is the easternmost AVA in Santa Barbara, warm, sunny and remote. It got the name during Prohibition – “Let’s head out to the canyon and get happy!” – when its remote location escaped the notice of police and revenuers.

Warm days, cool nights, and poor, mineral-laced soils make this a perfect place to grow Bordeaux grapes that achieve plenty of ripeness but avoid thick, heavy textures. The 2016 Le Confident showcases the region and the lovely 2016 harvest – warm and sunny at first with a remarkably cool August that stretched out the growing season and let flavor accumulate and tannins ripen to perfection.

The wine is a dreamboat. The fruit flavors are brilliantly ripe – juicy red and black raspberry, dark currant, blackberry – with no loss of Cabernet’s magnificent accents of crushed herb and cured tobacco. Gentle extraction gives the wine enough tannin for shape, success at table and potential in cellar, but leaves your mouth refreshed and watering, not dry and dusty. There’s just enough new oak here to provide roundness and a touch of vanilla spice, but you’d never call this “oaky” or “over oaked.”

Having tasted Union Sacré’s other wines (including the 2015 Le Confident that was sold out before we could get it) and read the effusively positive profile of Xavier Arnaudin in the Wine Advocate’s Loam Baby blog, there’s no doubt in my mind: these guys will be famous soon and their wines significantly more expensive.

Get ahead of the crowd here and lock up some of what could be Happy Canyon’s first ever “Cult Cab.” Drink some this year with any holiday season meal, and hold onto more to enjoy for years to come. It’s a can’t-miss winner.

We’ll have Union Sacré Cabernet Le Confident 2016 out on the tasting table on Friday from 3-7 and Saturday from noon-4pm. On Saturday, John Grimsley – industry veteran, proud papa of new start-up Le Storie Wines, and the guy who introduced us to Union Sacre – will be pouring. John’s portfolio is small, but we keep finding one winner after another here, and he’ll be sharing some other treats from his book, including the most expensive Volpolicella you’ve ever talked yourself into buying.

With only 400 cases made, though; we were lucky to get 20 cases and they may not last long. Don’t miss this one.

 

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A Homecoming Story: Remelluri Rioja

Telmo RodriguezTelmo Rodriguez’s first time returning home did not go well.

He’d left to study at the University of Bordeaux, made wine at Cos d’Estournel, and then worked in Cornas, Hermitage, Châteauneuf and Provence. He returned to Remelluri to work with his father in 1989.

But after a few years of battling over farming methods, winemaking approach and more, Telmo left home for the second time to explore new regions and vineyards across Spain. Today he is one of Spain’s most important winemakers and a vocal champion for authentic grapes, vineyards and wines.

Coming Home Again … and Making Changes
In 2010, Telmo’s father retired and Telmo came home once again to lead the family estate. In his homecoming year, he made important changes – starting with telling the 30 or so farmers his father had been purchasing grapes from that Remelluri would now use only their own, estate-grown, grapes. (Not to worry – he also helped those farmers found their own label and both made and marketed their wine for them!) Since 2010, Remelluri has become one of Rioja’s only “Chateau Estates,” making wine only from grapes they grow themselves.

Telmo picked a great year to come home, because vintage 2010 is perhaps Rioja’s greatest modern harvest. In this nearly perfect year, he harvested low-yields of Tempranillo (about 90%) plus Garnacha, Graciano and white grapes Viura and Malvasía Riojana. All were grown organically, harvested by hand, and fermented with native yeast in stainless steel. A full 17 months in mostly used French oak casks of various sizes let the wines round out and gain spice. Time in bottle allowed the final blend to integrate and add complexity to the sweet, ripe fruit.

remelluri reserva rioja“Real Deal” Reserva Rioja
The result is what I can only call “the real deal” in Reserva-level Rioja. The aromas are fantastic, interleaving scents of crushed cherry and raspberry with fragrant warm spice, orange peel, and fresh earth aromas. The texture is deep and rich, but with a classic touch of Rioja lift, and generous flavors of ripe fruit, sweet and savory spice, cedar, and more. The firm, dusty, finish is the perfect complement to earthy lamb or pork dishes and promises plenty of life for years to come.

  • “Very pleasant and easy to drink. It grows on you,” says Wine Advocate in its 93 point review.
  • “Fresh and long. Great persistence,” says Jancis Robinson.
  • “A wine with beautiful finesse and depth,” says James Suckling with his 95 point rating.

“Yummy – may I have some more?” your family and friends will say as they come home for your holiday feast. “Come taste it now, while you can,” we add, while it is on sale for $37.98 or $34.98 on a six-pack.

Because this is the kind of delicious treat that will give folks one more reason to come home for Christmas dinner for years to come.