We’ve written before about Priorat’s Silvia Puig and her garage wine project, En Numeros Vermells. Today, we’re introducing her new Priorat, which Silvia calls AiAiAi, big news for this ultra-small (it really is in a garage) project in the rugged hills of Priorat.
Not only is this wine Silvia’s first ENV Priorat built for drinking in its luscious youth, it’s the first to arrive since we’ve been able to announce that she’s left Vinedos de Ithaca to devote her full energies to this great new project.
With increasing success with her ENV wines, more and more active children and her husband’s thriving restaurant, Silvia has now decided to focus 100% of her winemaking energies on En Numeros Vermells. The extra time allowed her to purchase a little more fruit and turn her attentions and talents to making a softer, more accessible, wine that we can enjoy now while letting the top bottlings develop in cellar.
Our good friend and Silvia’s US importer, Jonas Gustafsson, has worked closely with Silvia since ENV’s inception, and he helped her create this exciting new wine, the 2013 AiAiAi Priorat. And, we’re very proud that Jonas invited us to be debut partners in Silvia’s exciting new venture, too!
“There are no Rules.” Silvia made about 1800 regular bottles and 60 magnums of the first-ever release of AiAiAi Priorat 2013, blending Garnacha (about half), Carignan (about 40%) plus dashes of Syrah and Merlot aged in an assortment of barrels and in tank. As with all her ENV wines, her only winemaking rule is simple: “There are no rules.” Instead, Silvia makes the best wine she can from vineyards farmed by good friends across Priorat and then tastes, tastes, and tastes some more until she discovers a blend that perfectly expresses the essence of the vineyards, growing season, and Priorat itself.
With AiAiAi, her focus is on showcasing the joy and wildness of her remote Priorat home and family. You’ll find plenty of classic Priorat aromas and flavors – blueberry, blackberry, crushed mint, damp slate, cocoa, licorice, and more – in a more festively styled wine that glides over your palate and finishes with supple tannins and mouthwatering, lingering flavors of black fruit, mint, and cocoa.
Ultra-Small, Focused Attention. Silvia designed En Numeros Vermells to let her intimately nurture small amounts of wine from grape to bottle on a barrel by barrel basis. The small scale let her largely ignore the normal time and financial pressures of winemaking – with a total production of only a few hundred cases, she was free to let each wine find its own way to maturity and use only the barrels that actually fit in her final blends.
We throw around the terms “garage wine” and “handcrafted” quite a bit, but that’s truly the best way to describe everything about these wines. The En Numerous Vermells “cellar” is the garage of Silvia’s house in the Priorat village of Poboleda, a building that also serves as Silvia’s home and her husband – Belgian chef Pieter Truyts – Brots Restaurant.
In this tiny space, Silvia is literally doing virtually everything by hand. She tends the small number of barrels stacked in the space carefully, tasting and re-tasting to learn how each is developing and gaining a deep understanding of each cask’s unique character, strengths, and weaknesses. Multiple blending trials allow Silvia to explore how her charges work together (or don’t), and create an ideal marriage that lets each site and varietal shine without fighting or overwhelming each other.