As is often the case, this week’s featured white, Ch de Vaux Moselle Blanc Les Gryphées, extra delicious in the 2018 vintage, has us wanting to explore a relatively unknown wine region: Moselle.
Marie-Geneviève and Norbert Molozay discovered this tiny French region – 100 acres in total – and purchased and revitalized the best estate there in 1999.
Sparkling History. Moselle was an important wine region in the 1700 and 1800s, producing mainly Pinot Noir used to make Champagne in Reims, to the east, or sparkling Sekt in Germany (between the Franco-Prussian war and WWI). The creation of the Champagne AOC, which eliminated Moselle grapes, the arrival of phylloxera, and heavy industrialization together essentially wiped out vine growing and wine making here from the 1920s on.
Despite the collapse of its major French and German sparkling wine markets, an eccentric history teacher, one Jean-Marie Diligent, kept Ch de Vaux going through the mid-20th century with a new focus on making and bottling their own still wines.
Seeing Potential. Which is where things stood when Norbert Molozay – a native of Beaujolais and graduate of the wine school in Dijon – and Marie-Genevieve Molozay – from a wine merchant family in nearby Metz – discovered it in 1999.
They saw the potential and invested heavily to realize it. They expanded Ch de Vaux’s holding (they now own about one-third of the AOC’s vines) and converted to organic farming to improve quality. Since 2014, they have been Demeter certified biodynamic farmers and also certified vegan – meaning no animal products are used in any element of winemaking.
Ch de Vaux Moselle Blanc Les Gryphées 2018, their lead white, shows the results of all that hard work. It’s a blend of Alsace grapes – 30% Auxerrois, 30% Muller Thurgau (a crossing of Riesling and Chasselas), 30% Tokay Pinot Gris and 10% Gewurztraminer. The vines grow on rocky terraces covered with clay and limestone with a south/southeast exposure. Each grape variety is fermented separately to full dryness in temperature controlled stainless steel before bottling clear, fresh, and invigorating.